Bill Blass’ Meatloaf
Mr. Blass famously loved a good meatloaf. His was—and is—practically iconic, one of the most famous dishes to come out of his kitchen, the kind of recipe people who knew him still talk about. I know it firsthand. The very first time I ever tasted it, I was sitting across from him at lunch in the showroom, decades ago, when I was his assistant designer. It was a total one-off—most days I was at the other office across the street at my desk with deli sushi—but that particular afternoon I happened to be finishing up work at a desk near his office. He'd just gotten his haircut (the barber came to him and cut right there in his office—how chic is that?), most of the staff were out at lunch, and in his casually impromptu way, he invited me to join him. Somehow, in all the years since, I never got around to actually making it myself— until now.
This version is my own take on that legendary recipe, with a few tweaks along the way (sorry, Mr. Blass). Another egg, more bacon, a bit more breadcrumbs so things hold together—and a tin foil sling to help get it out of the pan. But the bones of it—the comfort, the simplicity, the sense of home—are all his.
It feels fitting that I'm finally making it now. I came back to the house ten years after that first lunch to serve as creative director, and today I've co-curating the Christie's archive auction dedicated to his legacy. Cooking his most famous meatloaf, all these years later, feels like the last full-circle moment in a very full-circle story.
Serves 6-8
INGREDIENTS
1 cup finely diced celery
1 medium white or yellow onion, finely diced (about 1½ cups)
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 pounds ground beef sirloin
½ pound ground veal
½ pound ground pork
½ cup chopped fresh parsley
⅓ cup sour cream
¾ cup soft breadcrumbs
¼ teaspoon dried thyme
¼ teaspoon dried marjoram
2 large eggs
1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce
One 12-ounce bottle of Heinz chili sauce
4 slices bacon, cut in half
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
METHOD
Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Oil an 8-by-4-inch loaf pan. Line the loaf pan with foil sling: use one long sheet folded double, pressed into the pan with overhang along the two long sides. This lets you lift the finished meatloaf out cleanly for slicing.
In a heavy skillet over medium heat, sauté the celery and onion in the butter until soft—seasoning with salt and pepper—about 5 to 8 minutes. Scrape into a large mixing bowl and cool.
When the onions are cool enough to handle, add the meats, parsley, sour cream, breadcrumbs, thyme, marjoram, 1 teaspoon salt and ½ teaspoon pepper to the bowl. In a small bowl, use a fork to whisk the egg with the Worcestershire sauce—then add to the meat mixture. Using a wooden spoon or your hands (honestly the better choice), combine the mixture, then transfer to the prepared loaf pan.
Smooth the top, then spread with the chili sauce, in an even layer atop and lay bacon slices crosswise, just slightly overlapping (the bacon slices will be your guide when slicing). Bake until firm and nicely browned, about 1 hour and the internal temperature registers at 160F.
Rest 20 mins in the pan, then carefully pour off some of the liquid. Use the foil sling the lift the loaf out of the pan. Slice and serve—with red pepper jelly if you like, as Mr. Blass did.
Have you made it?
Tag @petersom on Instagram or use #theextrataste. I’d love to see your dishes! xoPeter