In the Kitchen With: Dan Kluger
Dan Kluger knows flavor. While the celebrated chef and restaurateur’s fantastic new book is entitled ‘Chasing Flavor’— Chef Dan is such a master of flavor and texture and taste that I think he appears to magically conjure up flavor. No chasing needed. It’s food that appears to be effortless because with each bite, the flavor combinations are so intrinsically balanced and harmonious that you believe that THIS is how that ingredient is supposed to taste.
Bringing out the best in ingredients is what Dan does and he has always done. Seasonal ingredients prepared simply for maximum flavor. Yes please, Chef!
A native New Yorker, Dan got his start in the kitchens of Danny Meyer’s Union Square Café, then went on to be part of the opening team of Tabla under the late great Chef Floyd Cardoz.
A few stops later he opened the famed ABC Kitchen as Executive Chef and it was there that he won multiple awards including the 2011 James Beard Award for Best New Restaurant and Food and Wine Best New Chef of 2012. Loring Place, his standout restaurant in the heart of NYC’s Greenwich Village, is where he now presides as Chef and Owner. And it’s where I had the honor of stepping into his kitchen and watching him cook a recipe from ‘Chasing Flavor’. And yes, I did nerd out.
His Leeks and Pears with Candied Walnuts, Yogurt and Sherry Vinaigrette is a symphony of flavors— tender leeks, succulent crisp pear, crunchy walnuts, creamy yogurt and the acidic zing of the vinaigrette. A recipe incredibly thought through, no doubt, but when I was eating it there was that harmony of effortless perfection that sang a symphony to my taste buds.
Never one to sit still, Dan also opened up Washington Squares that delivers his famous grandma-style pizzas out of his Loring Place kitchen and will soon open Penny Bridge— a seasonal market driven restaurant in Long Island City inspired by American diners and classic comfort food.
Listen, I know dresses. Designing a dress that appears effortless and also chic as hell takes a high level of thought and precision. At Loring Place, Dan Kluger is doing this with food every evening— honoring the ingredients, letting the food shine, and you can be sure, leading that flavor chase.
Here’s my friend Chef Dan Kluger’s recipe for Leeks and Pears with Candied Walnuts, Yogurt and Sherry Vinaigrette.
Follow Dan @dan_kluger, follow Loring Place @loringplacenyc, follow Penny Bridge LIC @pennybridgelic, and follow Washington Squares Pizza @washingtonsquarespizza.
Leeks and Pears with Candied Walnuts, Yogurt and Sherry Vinaigrette
“This salad is like a cross between a classic French side, leeks vinaigrette, and an American salad made with pears and walnuts. You can serve it as an elegant winter side, or a pretty starter for a din ner party. I first made it at a Long Island summer house after picking up some leeks from a farm stand, which I blanched in some pasta water and threw on the grill until they were deeply charred and infused with a smoky flavor. I love the contrast between the tender leeks, creamy yogurt, and crunchy pears and walnuts.”
- Dan Kluger
From Dan Kluger’s Chasing Flavor, recipe courtesy of the Chef
Makes 4 to 6 servings
INGREDIENTS
1 firm ripe pear (8 ounces), such as Bartlett or Bosc, quartered, cored, and very thinly sliced (use a mandoline if you have one)
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
4 leeks, each about ¾ to 1 inch in diameter, whites and light green parts only, roots trimmed
½ cup Greek yogurt
Sherry Vinaigrette (see below)
½ small celery stalk, thinly sliced on a bias (about ¼ cup), plus ¼ cup roughly chopped celery leaves
1 tablespoon finely diced jalapeño chile (with seeds)
Extra-virgin olive oil
1 cup Candied Walnuts (see below)
1 tablespoon chopped parsley
1 tablespoon chopped tarragon leaves
Flaky sea salt
METHOD
In a bowl, toss the pear with the lemon juice.
Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the leeks and blanch until just tender, 3 to 5 minutes. Transfer to paper towels to drain, then cut in half lengthwise.
Heat a large skillet (preferably cast-iron) over high heat. Working in batches, add the leeks, cut side down, and cook until charred on the bottom, about 3 minutes. Turn the leeks over and continue cooking until charred all over, about 4 minutes longer. Transfer to a plate, let cool slightly, then peel the outer charred layer from the leeks and discard.
Spread a thin layer of yogurt on the bottom of four to six shallow bowls. Arrange the leeks on top. Drizzle with the sherry vinaigrette and top with the sliced celery, jalapeño, and pear slices. Drizzle with olive oil. Sprinkle with the celery leaves, walnuts, parsley, tarragon, and flaky salt. Serve.
Candied Walnuts
Makes 2 cups
INGREDIENTS
2 cups walnuts
2 tablespoons water
¾ cup sugar
1 tablespoon kosher salt
METHOD
Preheat the oven to 350°F. Scatter the walnuts on a rimmed baking sheet and bake until lightly toasted, about 5 minutes. Transfer to a cutting board and coarsely chop.
In a medium saucepan, bring the water and sugar to a boil. Add the walnuts and cook, stirring constantly, until the water evaporates and the sugar crystallizes around the walnuts, about 2 minutes. Stir in the salt and spread the walnuts on a baking sheet to cool. Store the walnuts in an airtight container for a few days, or until they begin to lose their crunch.
Sherry Vinaigrette
Makes ½ cups
INGREDIENTS
2 tablespoons finely chopped shallot
2 tablespoons sherry vinegar
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
1 teaspoon organic sugar
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
Kosher salt
METHOD
In a medium bowl, whisk together the shallot, vinegar, mustard, and sugar until combined. Slowly whisk in the oil until emulsified. Season with salt and let sit 30 minutes to lightly pickle the shallots. The dressing can be made up to 2 days ahead and refrigerated until ready to use.